Jewelry & Watches
A Look At The Making of the Iconic Tiffany Setting Ring
The iconic diamond setting that celebrates 130 years strategically gathers light and bounces it right back to you.
Comments

“The only thing that does any good is to jump in a cab and go to Tiffany’s… Nothing very bad could happen to you there,” says Audrey Hepburn as the restless Holly Golightly in the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany’s. She was talking about what she calls the “mean reds,” moments when you are gripped by troublesome fear and the only tonic would be a visit to the happiest place on Earth, which, for Holly and the rest of womankind, is the Tiffany flagship store on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 57th Street in New York City.

Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffany’s.

With Breakfast, the American jeweler Tiffany & Co was cemented as a cultural icon—a place, an idea, a robin’s egg blue box, or a magnificent piece of jewelry worthy of mythology in movies, TV shows, books, and, in the age of the Internet, even memes. Breakfast was released 85 years after the introduction of the jeweler’s most famous design, a ring that would forever link Tiffany with the social ritual of the engagement.

It was in 1886 when Charles Tiffany debuted the Tiffany Setting. The design was radical at the time. An engagement ring that held the stone in its bezel was in vogue, but Tiffany’s creation lifted the diamond away from the band with six delicate, purposefully designed prongs. “The classical idea of beauty in symmetry defines the design of the Tiffany setting,” says Melvyn Kirtley, chief gemologist of Tiffany & Co. Poised upward, the diamond gathers light and then, as diamonds do, bounces it right back to you. When executed with Tiffany’s unparalleled stones—the jeweler’s standards “reject fully 99.96 percent of the world’s gem-grade diamonds”—and cut in the most brilliant of shapes, a light-maximizing round, the quintessential engagement ring roars to life.

Polishing a Tiffany engagement ring; a jeweler preps the six-pronged platinum setting before mounting a diamond

A cushion-shaped yellow diamond; a sketch of the Tiffany diamond

Charles Tiffany created the signature setting to celebrate the beauty of the diamond, which, in this state, has the power to make any woman forget her worries and, with hope, say yes to love.

The flagship store in New York

Copies of the Tiffany & Co blue book

Rustan’s Makati and Rustan’s Shangri-La Plaza.

Comments
View More Articles About:
About The Author
Clifford Olanday
Senior Fashion Editor, Esquire Philippines
View Other Articles From Clifford
Comments
Latest Stories
 
Share
The senator's son talks about building a better response toward natural calamities in the Philippines and an upcoming stint with NASA.
 
Share
A royal expert on why Kate Middleton is sitting, where Thomas Markle would have stood, and more.
 
Share
Aihnoa Barcelona, a Filipino-Spanish journalist based in London, shares how she covered the royal wedding as HELLO!'s deputy online editor. Ainhoa was our former intern at Town&Country Philippines.
 
Share
The eldest daughter of Jesse and Leni Robredo shares what she's learned during her year abroad.
 
Share
The newly-minted Duke and Duchess of Sussex attended a garden party at Buckingham Palace.
 
Share
Plus, interesting behind-the-scenes facts from the 'wedding of the year.'
 
Share
The wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle is more than the fulfillment of girlhood dreams, says the Truly Rich Lady.
 
Share
The former U.S. President is currently on a whirlwind tour of Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, and Japan.
Load More Articles
CONNECT WITH US