Dining

Now Open: The Tasting Room Makes a Glorious Comeback at City of Dreams

Initial offerings display contemporary French flavors with an Asian twist.
IMAGE COURTESY CITY OF DREAMS MANILA/ SANDY ARANAS
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After a quick break, modern European fare has made a comeback at the newly reopened Tasting Room, with seasoned chef Frederic Thevenet taking over as Chef de Cuisine.

Initial offerings from Thevenet’s kitchen display contemporary French flavors with an Asian twist. Thevenet shapes his menu around the Filipino palate, studying its preferences and flavor profiles. A balance of savory, acidic, and sweet flavors dominate the new menu, each dish with a wine pairing.  


Inside The Tasting Room

On the menu, French favorites are apparent before one distinguishes regional elements in each dish. The Tasting Room’s classic ravioli, for example, is given a new identity when awakened by the flavor of green curry, endives, and coconut milk—the distinct coconut milk taste a favorite among the Asian cultures.


Sea bass carpaccio with red and black radish, artichoke cream, cucumber jelly, celeriac, remoulade, banana blossom, and veal tongue; porcini and king prawn ravioli

Meticulous when it comes to his ingredients, Thevenet remains conscious about his sources. Before the opening of the restaurant, the chef combed through organic farms around the country, sourcing the best ingredients and produce.

He found succulent lobsters in General Santos, for example, which he includes in a delightful lobster bisque, flavored with ginger and Espelette pepper, which he recommends pairing with a glass of 2012 Gewurztraminer from Domaine Mittnacht.

The tasting menu opens with a dreamy prelude of sea bass carpaccio with red and black radish, artichoke cream, cucumber jelly, celeriac, remoulade, banana blossom, and veal tongue. The porcini and king prawn ravioli whets the appetite as well.


Lobster bisque; and Pollock with choucroute, smoked bacon, tofu, and juniper berries

The lobster bisque serves as an introduction to the fish entrée Pollock with choucroute, smoked bacon, tofu, and juniper berries. Then there’s the crowd favorite: Cape Grim grass-fed beef tenderloin seasoned with black pepper and onions, with greens on the side. The meal ends on a high note, with a sweet and velvety dessert—the chocolate success—partnered with a lychee velouté sauce.

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Cape Grim grass-fed beef tenderloin seasoned with black pepper and onions; chocolate success with lychee velouté 

Thevenet’s portfolio boasts 30 years of culinary experience with Michelin-starred, award-winning restaurants across France and the United Kingdom. His training began at the early age of 15, when he worked at the acclaimed Pavillon Elysée Lenôtre as commis de cuisine in 1988 before moving to the two-star Restaurant Guy Savoy, where he was chef de partie until 1990. Other highlights include work at Pierre Gagnaire and Restaurant Bruno. 


Frederic Thevenet

Where Thevenet goes, close friend and frequent collaborator Stephen Moroney is usually close by. The pair recently worked together at La Maison 1888 at the DaNang Sun Peninsula Resort in Vietnam. Thevenet relies heavily on Moroney opinions and advice to guarantee the quality of the dishes for their guests. Moroney now serves as Tasting Room’s restaurant manager.


Stephen Moroney

The Tasting Room makes its new home just across its previous location. The space includes a main dining room for 40, an area for more intimate gatherings, and a bar.


The Tasting Room, Crown Towers, City of Dreams, Aseana Avenue corner Macapagal Ave., Entertainment City, Roxas Blvd, Paranaque, 800.8080.

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